Hi everyone! So I built my byoc wah several years ago (5 years maybe?) and love it. It was beginning to show some age, it had a scratchy pot and some other noises that I've since fixed thanks to this forum. But I saw this post about fixing the pop that occurs when I turn on the wah and was hoping someone could clear up a couple things for me and potentially anyone else reading this. In the wah instructions (http://buildyourownclone.com/wahinstructions.pdf
) it has the 1 lug (or really the 9 lug) wired to the pcb output, 2 (8) wired to the out jack, 4 (6) to the pcb input, and 5 to the input jack. This is different from the diagram Stephen originally posted here where he has 1 and 2 going to inputs and 4 and 5 going to outputs. Am I reading this right so far? How should I proceed? Should I change my wiring to match what Stephen posted? Should I just switch my pcb input wire and input jack wire (4 and 5 for me) and add the jumper between 3 and 4 (instead of 1 and 6)?
I apologize if I'm missing something obvious. I'm ok with a soldering iron, I just lack the true knowledge in electronics to figure some things out on my own. That's why byoc has been good to me, those nice step by step instructions!
Thanks for any help you can give me!
I had to think it through for a while because for newbies like us it's not as obvious. If you had the same problem as me, you weren't sure about the diagram layout with the differences between the DPDT and the 3PDT diagram in the instructions. Well, it turns out that each column of lugs in a 3dpt switch is completely independent of each other, so you can wire up whatever 2 columns you want with a dpdt diagram and just omit whichever 3rd column you want.
Hope that clarifies confusion for someone out there who had the same conundrum as me, translating a dpdt diagram to 3pdt.