Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I know there was a previous post on this, but I didnt understand that diagram, could someone make a clear diagram on how to add a switch to turn the octave on/off on this pedal for us non-electrician types? For some reason it looked like that other diagram was using 2 switches(?). I am sure this is a mod that MANY people will be interested in, thanks!

Remove the Ge diode closest to the transformer and place it where it says "insert diode here". Then connect a SPST toggle switch as per the diagram.

The SPDT toggle switch is for the Fuzz lift mod. The + side of the 33uf cap goes to the pole of the switch (center lug). The 2 throws get connected to their respective holes in the pcb. These are the 2 lines in the diagram that go under the diagram of the 33uf cap and into the holes between the new Ge diode location and the 0.1uf cap in the diagram.

Thanks so much Stephen, it was that 2nd switch in the diagram that was confusing me, whats that for?

It defeats the fuzz effect.

Are all three of the holes jumpered together or is that a bad diagram? One lug of the SPST, one lug of the SPDT, V1, the hole next to "jack" and the hole next to the new diode?

I've got the octave lift mod working. I'm using the top two solder pads going to the pole and one of the throws of a spdt switch.

I'm having a problem with the fuzz lift. I've got the cap's lead going to the pole. The solder pad in the lower right is going to one of the throws and works when the switch connects it to the pole. The other throw is going to the solder pad in the lower left of that diagram. When the switch connects this throw to the cap, there is no sound at all. It is functioning as a kill switch. I suppose that could be called a fuzz lift...

Any idea what's wrong? Again, I have sound in bypass. I have sound when engaged, if and only if the fuzz lift switch connects the cap with the lower right solder pad. In the other position, I've got silence. The Fuzz lift is a kill switch for me.

Two thoughts just occurred to me.

Will the fuzz lift act as a kill switch depending on the position of the octave lift switch? I don't know if in my limited troubleshooting last night I tried flipping the functional octave lift switch while the fuzz lift was in the kill switch position.

After looking at the diagram again, should I have jumpered the upper right and lower left solder pads?

Thanks guys!

Mike,
You're not alone. I'm having the same issue. With the fuzz lift switch, when the capacitor is switched out of the circuit, it mutes the pedal completely. This is regardless of where the octave lift switch is. Maybe Keith will chime in on this one.

BB

bump
Anyone have any ideas on this? Is the diagram correct?

Has anyone got the Octave boost mod working??? I am planning on trying this mod soon. Is the diagram above correct?

Hmmm....I don't remember posting that drawing. Llooks like I forgot about the zero ohm resistor. You need a DPDT switch to perform the existing function of the SPDT and to "lift" the zero ohm resistor.

This is a theoretical mod that I have not tried myself. The octavia is somewhat similar to the tonebender as far as the fuzz circuit goes. It's a 3 stage cascaded transistor fuzz. So this mod bypasses the 2nd and 3rd transistor stages leaving you with essentially nothing more than something that is very similar to an LPB w/ a gain knob which runs into the transformer for the octave effect.

So, the DPDT replaces the SPDT on the diagram? And how/where do I solder the Zero ohm res?

Yes, please tell us more or another quick sketch would be great too. I'd like to get this working. I'm curious on hearing the octave effect without the fuzz.

BB

A sketch would be great. I already drilled out the hole in prep for the mod, too. Stupid me. I didnt realize no one got it working yet.

BUMP

It's very simple. No need for a sketch. You're just using the second half of a DPDT to lift a single resistor (0 ohm resistor is really just a glorified jumper)

1. pull the 0 ohm

2. connect one end of the 0 ohm slot....either end...it doesn't matter....to the 2nd pole of your DPDT switch.

3. connect the other end of the 0 ohm slot to either one of the throws of the 2nd half of the DPDT. When you flip the switch to that this throw is connecting to the second pole, this will be "fuzz on".

[quote="byoc"]It's very simple. No need for a sketch. You're just using the second half of a DPDT to lift a single resistor (0 ohm resistor is really just a glorified jumper)

1. pull the 0 ohm

2. connect one end of the 0 ohm slot....either end...it doesn't matter....to the 2nd pole of your DPDT switch.

3. connect the other end of the 0 ohm slot to either one of the throws of the 2nd half of the DPDT. When you flip the switch to that this throw is connecting to the second pole, this will be "fuzz on".

I will post a pic tomorrow. I think I got it

Okay, I think I have it. Here is a quick sketch of the 2 mods that I have done for the Octafuzz. The only thing I'm not sure of is the Boost. This is how I have mine wired and there isn't a real difference in sound that I can hear between the normal and supposed boost, so I probably have it wired wrong. So if someone will verify that part. I'm putting together the new DPDT switch for the fuzz lift and can verify that it works tomorrow.



-BB

Well, no go on the fuzz lift switch. It still does the same thing. Position one, fuzz, position two, mute. So, unless what I have drawn is incorrect, this still doesn't do it. Have to wait for Keith to get back from vacation to see if he has any other ideas on this.

-BB

I think that you need to have (on your DPDT) one of the zero ohm wires going to pole 2 on one side and the other wire going to any pole on the other side. try that.

Ummm... that's what I have. One pole 1 is the 33uf cap with the 2 throws wired to the spots on the board from Keith's original diagram using a SPDT. The second pole has 1 side of the 0 ohm slot and 1 throw has the other side of the 0 ohm slot as per Keith's new instructions. The other side is empty which essentially is "lifting" the resistor or jumper. Which looks like from looking at the traces on the board removes the second transistor. So if I understand right, the fuzz is on when the 33uf cap is connected and the 0 ohm is connected. I just don't understand why it mutes it when both are lifted. I wish I had a little more knowledge on reading schematics and knowing why what goes where.

My advice was taken from what Keith said,
" connect one end of the 0 ohm slot....either end...it doesn't matter....to the 2nd pole of your DPDT switch.

I was thinking maybe one wire from your zero ohm slot went to the 2nd pole and the other going to the other throws side, any pole.
Havent tried the octave fuzz yet, still banging away at my rat clone. Good luck.

I was thinking of doing these mods and was wondering if anyone got the fuzz lift to work.

Also is there a way to do the octave lift with a SPDT instead of the SPST?

I'm still at a loss with the fuzz lift switch and it's a bit frustrating. I've done a couple of variations on the switch and the 0 ohm resistor and still no luck. It is still just a mute switch.

If you look at my diagram above, it is a SPDT. You can use just an on-on SPDT and not wire anything to the second throw to give you an octave lift.

Hi gang- I'm new to the BYOC forum, but I just want to weigh in on getting this Octavia mod happening. FWIW, I know at least one pedal builder (Lovepedal) that offers the Octavia effect without fuzz, so I imagine the sound is lurking there on the circuitboard. Best of luck on whoever breaks the code!