Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Hey everyone! I'm trying to build a clean blend that I can throw into a muff clone for soft distortions. I've been using this schematic: http://www.jmkpedals.com/JMK_Pedals/DIY ... 0Pedal.pdf

It works, but I'm getting clean signal at all times, and maybe half my distorted signal. I have a pm going with him about that, but if any of you guys see something that would cause that, definitely chime in.

I'm wondering, though... It looks like it splits the signal, then sends it over to the IC. Does the IC then boost the split signals, or am I only sending 50% signal through to the muff?

Is there a way to use the pot as the splitter so it sends up to 100% signal through? Curious to see what you guys know.

Thanks in advance!!!

Theres this one:

http://gaussmarkov.net/layouts/bblender ... roject.pdf

And: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/blocksfragments/

About half way down, the buff n blend.

Your one should work, the opamp is buffering the effect in and out, the mixing is at the pot, check your build for errors.

The wiring is solid, I checked it at least 6 times. The circuit designer is thinking that the pot might be too small. I'm gonna try it with a range between 100k and 500k this weekend to see if that's the issue. Every other one I've seen has 50k or bigger, and this one only has 10k. We'll see if that helps.

A larger pot will just give you finer adjustment I'd think. I've used blends with 10k pots (linear). Check the values of your resistors, orientation and value of capacitors and track bridges. Some photo's may help as well.

Well, last time I posted a pic, it was not pretty soldering - and it's not pretty this time either LOL. BUT, it's my first perf build, so... yep. Be nice - ugly joints still work!

I checked for bridges and didn't see any.

It DOES work, but the clean is always there 100% (regardless of turned up or down), and the effect is maybe 50-75% when turned all the way up, and 0% when all the way down. I liked this schematic cause it's small and can fit in with all the other crap into a 1590B without issue. Although I would like to switch it, I'm not sure if that would work right without using 2 switches (in/out and send/receive) - and that would give my pedal 5 knobs and 3 switches in a 1590b - seems a bit much, and I'm not sure I'm that creative to cram it all in there, LOL.

My thinking is that it's the pot since sound gets through the IC and the blend just seems to get jumbled at that location. I swapped in another IC and it does the same thing.

Is there a way for me to check the levels going through each side of the IC with my meter?

Anyway - pics:

That schem doesn't make much sense to me.
The pot setup is weird.

Is this a confirmed project?

The project came from here: http://www.jmkpedals.com/JMK_Pedals/DIY ... 0Pedal.pdf

I believe that it's been confirmed, BUT - I made the perf schematic based on the singled-sided etch image in that document, so that part hasn't been confirmed.

I also checked it against the schematic to be sure I had everything going the right way, and it seems to be okay. Are you seeing something that I'm not? What looks off to you?

Lemme know!

Hey guys... FYI, I got this working by replacing the pot with a 500k alpha. I wonder if the 10k pot was faulty? Is there a way to test that?

Either that, or 10k is just not enough for this schematic. Either way, thanks to all who replied.

I would try another 10k pot just to be sure...they DO fail sometimes.
And if it's the same thing then try 100K. 500k is a bit high and will start
cutting some signal at the output I believe.
You basically want to use the least resistance that "works".

Hey Mike, take your DMM and touch lugs 1 and 3 and you should get your resistance. As you move the pot you should see it change.

As you move the pot you should see it change

With the probe on lugs 1 and 2 or 3 and 2 it should change resistance
when you turn it.
(just clarifying )

ANybody have a vero layout for this?

no vero layout - just that perf one in the pic posted.

EDIT -- NO GOOD! Ignore all of the following, hehe...

Also, you can test the resistance from lugs 1 and 3, and it will change when you turn it - that's how I tested every one of my pots when I was changing the wafers for my jazzmaster/strat build. Either method works.

Also, you can test the resistance from lugs 1 and 3, and it will change when you turn it
Respectfully, no.
A pot is made up of a conductive strip (lugs 1 and 3).
The wiper (lug 2) travels across the resistance giving you
between roughly zero ohms on one end and the full value
of the pot at the other end
.
Measuring across lugs 1 and 3 will only ever give you the
full resistance of the pot.
This would be with the pot out of circuit (not wired up...)

Ah, you're right... Took me a minute.

Sorry, been a while. Editing the other post now...

Thanks John good catch.