Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I know this is the Mods thread, but there is no official thread for the True Bypass Looper.

I completed the looper, but the On/Off Switch (Blue LED) does not work. Plugged into the input, the A or B lights up so it is continually on. The only way to turn it off is to unplug from the Input. Depressing the On/Off switch does nothing and does not turn the LED on or off.

I rechecked the wiring and everything is done as per the instructions. I did unhook (desoldered) the LED lead to the resistor and it works the same, so I suspect the problem is the LED.

Before I replace the LED, is my assumption correct that the LED is damaged or not working, or could the problem be somewhere else in the circuit like the switch itself?

Well - so far no replies.

For the board mods - a section of this forum needs to be started titled "A/B True Bypass Looper" so that people can post their build problems and others can post their solutions and tips.

I did fix my looper and it works now. I had to remove the Blue LED I installed. Initially I installed a spare Radio Shack LED since the LED that came with the kit appeared clear to me. I replaced the originally installed LED with the one that came with the kit and the switch works fine now.

Tips:

During the building process, I came to a couple of conclusions. It was a very difficult and time consuming process to solder the wires to the switches with them installed in the box. If I built this project over again, I would dry fit the LED leads to the switches, then remove the switches from the box in order to solder all necessary wire connections to the switches without trying to do it in a confined space. After reinstalling the switches, the LED leads could be quickly soldered to the appropriate lugs on the switches and the ends of the wires from the switches soldered to the appropriate lugs on the jacks.

Another problem I solved the second time around when replacing the Blue LED was that I made an adapter to solder the 4.7k resistor and two wires to the sleeve terminal of the DC adaptor jack, I took a piece of clipped component lead (from a cap or resistor) I had saved and bent a loop in one end, making it easy to insert both wires (with tinned ends) and the lead from the resistor into. I then closed the loop slightly tighter around the wire ends and resistor lead and then soldered them all together. I then soldered the other end of the clipped lead to the hole in the sleeve terminal of the DC adaptor jack (with a piece of heat shrink insulation to cover up the bare portion). This was a lot easier that trying to insert both wires and the resistor lead through the hole of the DC adaptor jack.